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Fable for Two

I have to apologize in advance for the rampant culinary wordplay which is sure to permeate this review. But when you're dealing with a film that pushes the food-as-love metaphor as much as "No Reservations" - a slightly undercooked (see?) remake of 2001's German feature "Mostly Martha" - you really have no other choice. Like its source material, "Reservations" tells the story of a high-end chef (Catherine Zeta-Jones) who, after being saddled with her newly-orphaned niece, finds love with a shaggy-haired, unconventional sous-chef (Aaron Eckhart).

Despite the Zeta-Jones/Eckart double-bill, the heart of this story is in the relationship between Ms. Zeta-Jones' Kate and her niece Zoe ("Little Miss Sunshine" herself, Abigail Breslin). After a particularly effective opening tragedy, Kate takes the child into her home and attempts to stretch her maternal muscles (she tries to feed her a delectably prepared whole fish). These moments feature fine work by both actresses. Little Ms. Breslin can be precocious without being precious, and when Ms. Zeta-Jones allows her icy exterior to melt (all too infrequently, mind you), "Reservations" features some of her best work to date. As for Mr. Eckhart, he tries to make his character more than the chef-in-shining-armor, but this role is mostly an audition for future romantic lead opportunities.

Director Scott Hicks sets the film firmly in Woody Allen's New York. Kate, who lives in a reality-bending two bedroom apartment, makes frequent visits to her therapist (the always-wonderful Bob Balaban who recommends "fish sticks" as a dinner option) and works in a fictional (but real-sounding) hot-spot "22 Bleecker". Too bad the script's tastes are so pedestrian. Mr. Eckhart's Nick studied in Italy (exotic!); Kate's secret ingredient comes from (no way!) Chinatown; Nick's love of Opera adheres closely to a Greatest Hits CD ("La donna e mobile", "Libiamo", etc). This extends to the film's treatment of food as well which, despite a constant presence, never achieves true succulence as in delicious examples like "Babette's Feast", "Big Night", or "Eat Drink Man Woman".

Cooking is part chemistry. When you experiment with different ingredients, it's hard to tell how they're going to react until you taste them in action. Mr. Eckhart and Ms. Zeta-Jones both have charisma to spare, but the simple script by newcomer Carol Fuchs (based on the original by Sandra Nettelbeck) proceeds on a low simmer for so long that when it attempts to bring their relationship to a boil it's already long since overdone (don't worry, I'll stop soon). The lead characters have little life to them; they seem to exist only to woo each other with furtive glances across the kitchen and some playful montage sequences (riding a three-seater bike!). Romantic comedies can be an acquired taste, but while "No Reservations" follows the recipe, it feels as reheated as those fish sticks. It fills you up without leaving you truly satisfied.